The heat isn’t getting any better so I thought I would just put the skins onto the spar but it turned out I needed to do a little bit more first. I started off by putting some corrosion protector on the places where the skins would be making contact. While I was waiting for this to dry I went ahead and drilled a pilot hole in the horn where the stabiliser will attach.
For safety, the trim tab hinge pin needs to be safety wired so that it cannot fall out. This was a whole new thing to me, I thought you could just twist some wire but it turns out there is a tool specially for this purpose. I’ll post a picture of it some time, but I had to watch some youTube videos to learn how to use it. It took me a couple of tries but I finally got something I think will work. Anyway, first I had to chop a bit of the hinge pin off to make room for the safety wire hole and then I used a 1/6 inch bit to drill two holes, one in each end.
And here is one end wired.
In preparation for putting the trim tab servo inside the skeleton I attached the servo rod to the actuator using the proper pins and washers.
I then started to add the skins back onto the spar and ribs
But before I could bend over the nose skin I had to bring the servo wire out through the spar holes and the grommet in the rib so it wouldn’t all be inside the skin. To hold the cable securely I installed some clamps to the spar using A5 rivets.
And through the rib…
After a bit more effort I have all the skins clecoed in place ready for riveting.
After riveting the skins I will install the trim tab and the horn assembly.
I have noticed one small thing… the skin overlaps a row of holes that make up the servo access cover point so I either have to drill through the skin to open some holes or cut the skin to go around it. The former, I suppose.